Sweetbitter

Sweetbitter (2016) is a New York Times bestseller by Stephanie Danler, published by Knopf. Sweetbitter is based on Danler’s own experiences as a server and wine connoisseur in New York City. Danler famously got a book deal by giving the manuscript of Sweetbitter to one of her regular customers, an influential book publisher. Sweetbitter is a coming-of-age story, a love letter to New York City, and a powerful portrayal of all the drama and excitement that goes on behind the scenes in elite restaurants.

Sweetbitter was adapted into a television series of the same name through the Starz network. It is Danler’s debut novel.

This guide refers to the print edition published by Alfred A. Knopf in 2016.

Content Warning: This guide contains discussion of drug abuse, sex, violence, and mental-health stigmatizations.

Plot Summary

Tess moves to New York City at the age of 22. She doesn’t know anyone in the city and rents a room from a friend of an acquaintance. Tess interviews for a job in a restaurant. The manager, Howard, is eccentric; he asks Tess questions about books and life philosophy. Tess doesn’t yet know what she wants in life and finds Howard’s questions difficult to answer. She gets a trial job as a backwaiter.

When Tess start working at the restaurant, she assists with menial task work. She struggles to keep up with the pace, is clumsy with hot plates, and doesn’t know much about food or wine. But Tess is happy because she is one of the “fifty-one percenters,” a term the owner uses to refer to the special people he hires. Tess wants to be part of something larger than herself. She is alone, completely unsure of herself, and wants to be seen and liked. Tess observes the other staff members with minute attention to learn how to simply be.

One of longest-lasting servers, Simone, befriends Tess and takes her under her wing. Simone is glamorous, chic, and has incredible knowledge of fine dining, fine wine, culture, literature, art, and travel. This is the what the term “fifty-one percenters” captures: Simone is serving food to wealthy people, and she is well-versed in the languages and hobbies of the wealthy. Thus, Simone gives the guests an experience that goes beyond eating. Tess is transfixed by Simone. She finds her confidence admirable in its naturalness. Simone clearly wields influence in the restaurant. Because she is exceptional, Simone’s role as a mentor to Tess makes Tess feel special. Simone is Tess’s role model, but she craves a real friendship with her and tries to emulate Simone. Simone teaches Tess about palates, food, and wine—lessons Tess takes very seriously. Simone loans Tess books and offers wisdom from her own life, which further tethers Tess to her. Tess puts Simone on a pedestal, but the longer-term backwaiters warn her to be careful with Simone.

In learning the ropes of her job and gradually improving, Tess learns more about herself. She makes friends with the other backwaiters, who show her New York’s party scene and nightlife. They go out after their shifts, staying out late into the night. Tess is introduced to their use of cocaine to fuel their nights and prescriptions like Adderall to stay alert during the day. Tess dives into this new life with joy, but the partying wears on her. One of her new friends, Will, tells her that he’s in love with her, but Tess is infatuated with the bartender Jake. Jake is 30 years old, extremely good-looking, and very mysterious. He and Simone have a close connection and shared history. The backwaiters also warn Tess against dating Jake.

Tess and Jake start hooking up, which turns into a relationship. Though unofficial, she and Jake spend their free time together. Tess is blissfully happy with Jake, despite his occasional meanness and frequent absence. Tess believes that she and Jake can fill one another’s loneliness. The sex is passionate and tinged with violence. Jake doesn’t want to have the label of boyfriend and girlfriend. Meanwhile, Tess is still entranced by Simone, who continues to mentor her at work. Tess studies the wine atlas and reads the books Simone loans her to keep up. Tess wants to be part of Jake and Simone’s makeshift family. She learns that Simone and Jake have known each other since childhood. Simone was Jake’s neighbor, and when Jake was eight years old, and Simone a teenager, Jake’s mother died. Simone helped to raise Jake. They have a close but strange bond. They look out for, and are utterly committed to, one another. Tess is jealous of their connection and suspicious of Simone’s intentions with Jake.

Meanwhile, Tess discovers some seedier parts of the restaurant industry. Howard has consistent affairs with his young female staff members. One of the girls he sleeps with has a breakdown and leaves the city. Howard tells Tess that she’s the first on his list to be promoted to server, so Tess keeps her negative opinions about him to herself. She also learns about the regulars who come into the restaurant and their personal highs and lows. A former server named Samantha comes in with her husband. Tess compares Samantha and Simone, who had a conflict and are no longer close friends. Tess realizes that she has been wrong about Simone. Simone doesn’t want to be a server—she has no other choice because her other dreams haven’t come true, while Samantha’s have.

When the restaurant is closed by the Health Department for three days, Simone cries. Tess realizes that Simone is too attached to the restaurant. Jake explains that Simone is too overqualified to work at other restaurants, and, because she’s spent so many years working as a server, it may be too late for her to find another vocation.

Tess discovers Simone’s work request to take June off to travel to France with Jake. Neither of them told Tess about the trip, let alone invited her. This feels like a betrayal to Tess. She confronts Jake about it and insists that he spend more time with her, but Jake insists on taking care of Simone. Tess tries to confront them at Simone’s apartment, but no one answers her or lets her into the building. Tess realizes that she’ll never be more important to Jake than Simone. She also comes to terms with the fact that Simone and Jake will never welcome her into their relationship. Tess is heartbroken about losing both of them, but she realizes that she’ll never really be friends with Simone or a girlfriend to Jake.

Tess goes to Howard to talk about her promotion. She has sex with Howard in his office. Howard promotes her to server as part of a transfer to another restaurant within the company. Tess is betrayed yet again. Tess decides to leave the industry altogether. She has no plans for her future, but she considers working at a wine cellar. In her first year in New York, she’s made enough money to take her time making her next move. Despite the emotional turbulence brought on by her time at the restaurant and experiences with Simone and Jake, Tess feels stronger and more autonomous. She is proud of herself for becoming a New Yorker. She has her entire life ahead of her and, though she doesn’t know what she wants, she has figured out what she doesn’t want.